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Overview: School Security Hardware

11line

Sargent 11-Line Cylindrical (bored) Lockset

Security in our elementary and secondary schools has become much more important. Schools across the country are implementing lockdown procedures in case of emergency. Lockdowns are achieved through the use of locks, and new lock functions have been developed for use in concert with existing lock functions to answer the need for increased security.

Classroom Security Locks

A regular, traditional classroom function lock is unlocked and locked from the outside by key and the inside lever is always unlocked, allowing free egress. The problem with this function from a lockdown point of view is that, in order to lock the door, the teacher must open the door to lock it, exposing themselves and potentially their students to danger as they do so.

All major lock companies are either developing a classroom security function or assigning that application to one of their existing functions. Basically, the principal is this: in the event of an emergency the teacher can lock the outside lever handle of the classroom door from inside the classroom, thereby securing the safety of the students without endangering themselves. The inside lever remains unlocked allowing free egress. When locked, entry from the outside is by key only.

Some companies have developed classroom security function locksets in which the outside lever can be locked or unlocked with either the inside key or the outside key. This allows the teacher to continue to use the lock as a traditional classroom lock unless an actual emergency develops.

Click here for a complete description of classroom security function in a mortise lock.

 

Electric Lock Down Systems

Some school districts have opted to lock down their perimeter doors with delayed egress systems. Delayed egress systems are a way of locking exterior entrance doors from both sides while allowing for emergency egress.

Quest for the 24-Inch Exit Device with Electric Latch Retraction

Yale7100I had a lot of fun recently trying to meet a customer’s requirement for a 4-foot by 7-foot pair of doors in a hospital that needed to be fire rated and automated.   I found that Corbin and Yale (sister companies whose exit devices are almost identical) offer fire rated surface vertical rod exit devices with electric latch retraction that meet this need.   The installer will be able to put some kind of little power operator on each 24-inch leaf of this four foot pair and cram two fire rated surface vertical rod devices onto these same narrow leaves.  Doubtless it will look odd, but it will work.

Admittedly the whole idea is a bit dubious.  True, by having both leaves opened simultaneously by power operators will provide amply more than the minimum 32-inch clearance demanded by the American Disabilities act, but if anyone manually opens either leaf it certainly will not.

Sargent and Von Duprin offer 24-inch fire rated exit devices, but neither offer them with electric latch retraction.   It is unfortunately necessary to call these companies’ tech support lines in order to verify this information, since their price lists both show 24-inch possibilities without disclaiming the electric latch retraction option.  Neither the Sargent nor the Von Duprin has a note to say the 24-inch device is not available with electric latch retraction that I could see; if that is in fact the case, the buyer is left to beware the exit device order that bounces back because it was ordered with options that are mutually incompatible.

It’s good advice anyway to always call the manufacturer’s tech support whenever there is a question.  Waiting on hold is a lot better than storing thousand-dollar exit devices that didn’t work out on the job.

Note:  A reader named Rick writes in with this about Sargent electric latch retraction:  “Tom, I just stumbled across your site this evening, while doing a search for Fail Secure mag locks of all things (IR says there is one).  But I saw your latest article on latch retraction units and had to clarify the Sargent restrictions. These can be found within the catalog pages, specifically the page showing the 56 option (toward the back). It says:

         MinimumDoorWidths:
              -Wide Stile Door 28″
              – Narrow Stile Door 26″
Thank you, Rick, for this bit of info.  I should add that it is always good to check all the literature at your disposal for any information you are looking for.  Some manufacturers have more detail in their price list than in their catalog, and others vice versa.  Thanks again.


Securitron’s new PowerJump ICPT™ Inductive Coupling Power Transfer

Securitron’s new PowerJump ICPT™

Securitron’s new PowerJump ICPT™

The door hardware industry breathlessly awaits the debut of Securitron’s new PowerJump ICPT™ Inductive Coupling Power Transfer.  The PowerJump is Securitron’s miraculous new device that may put a significant dent in the electric through-wire hinge market.  I mean, why would you drill a half inch hole the width of a 36-inch door when you could install this little pair of black boxes on the lock side?

I downloaded the installation instructions from the Securitron web site to check out product attributes and characteristics.  The first thing I noticed, having spent much of my career working with wooden doors, that the Securitron PowerJump ICPT is a bit friendlier to a hollow metal door or frame install than it is to a wood door or frame install.  Because the body of the unit is almost the same size as the face, the installer must take great care to cut a very clean hole for the body so that the hole does not exceed the size of the face.  This can be a little tricky when using a speed bore bit (or auger bit as mentioned in the instructions) to drill the two deep holes for the mortise pocket before cutting in the face.

One trick I have used to use when installing mortise locks was to cut in the face first and get that nice and clean before drilling the holes.  I had good success with this because it gave me a very clear outline to stay within – much like coloring inside the lines with crayons in kindergarten.  Installing the PowerJump is a lot like installing a really small mortise lock, actually.  The face is the same width and a standard architectural grade mortise lock – 1-1/4 inches.

The PowerJump ICPT draws 500mA at 24 volts DC on the frame side, will transmit it across up to 3/16 inch of empty air and output either 250mA at 24VDC or 500mA at 12VDC on the door side.  500mA seems a little slim to be powering an electrified mortise lock.  Usually I like to see a bit of a cushion when it comes to current, so I would usually not power a device that requires 250mA at 24 volts DC, like a Sargent electrified mortise lock, with a power source that provided no more than the 250mA required.  I’d be a lot happier with a power source that has a capacity at least 1.5 times as great as the appliance being powered.

However, the average electrified hinge with 28-gauge through-wires only has a current rating of about 160mA and we have been powering electric mortise locks with these for decades.  Since I am not an electrical engineer I am not sure how that works, but it does.  I am also mystified by the science behind transmission of electrical current by induction.  Therefore, like most installers, I trust Securitron to produce yet another innovative product that works well.   I’ll be waiting to hear how installers like it when it is finally released.  I know I’ll hear about it one way or another.

Securitech Lexi Electrified Exit Device Trim

Great Problem Solver

The Securitech Lexi series retrofit exit device trim is available with a variety of back plates and adapters that allow it to be used with most major brands, including many surface vertical rod and concealed vertical rod exit devices.  Compatibility with a variety of vertical rod devices is a major plus.

I mean, anybody can electrify a rim exit device by simply installing an electric strike.  However, while it is possible to install an electric strike on a vertical rod device it rarely brings a good result.  First of all, in order to use an electric strike you have to first lose the bottom rod.  That just leaves one latch at the top of the door to provide all the security.  If it is a tall door or a flexible door – like an aluminum storefront door – you can pull the bottom open several inches with just that top latch holding it.  Add a little time and a little hinge sag and pretty soon you have no security at all.

The other solution is electric latch retraction, or electric latch pullback, as some manufacturers call it:  relatively expensive compared with a Lexi trim.  Also, electric latch retraction is a fail secure only solution when locking trim is used and therefore may be inapplicable to fail safe installs such as stairwells, unless passage function (always unlocked) trims are used.

I notice that right out of the box the Lexi is very self contained.  Other than a tiny box containing mounting screws, tailpiece operators, and a cylinder collar and cam, what you see is pretty much what you get.  It’s pretty hefty for its size – it is designed on the slim side so as to be usable on narrow stile as well as hollow metal or wood doors.   This does mean that the installer may have to be a little creative when replacing a larger exit device trim with the Lexi.

Installation instructions are easy to follow and short – only four pages, including the template. Something I would have liked to see in the instructions, but didn’t, was current draw.  If I am installing one of these, the number of amps it draws are not going to matter much to me.  But if I am installing twenty of them and want a centralized power source, now it’s an issue.  Yet it isn’t anything that an experienced low voltage specialist with a ammeter can’t find out in two seconds.

One of the great innovations I noticed right away is the rotation restriction clip that allows the installer to customize tailpiece rotation to the exit device.  I do not think that this is handled better by any other manufacturer.  Correct degree of rotation often determines whether a trim will work or not, and to have a trim that has degree of rotation so easily selectable is damn nice.

As mentioned in the sales literature, since Securitech’s Lexi trim is compatible with so many exit devices, if you have a facility with different brands of exit devices dispersed throughout, you can install access control and unify the exterior appearance at the same time.  And in addition to being versatile it is also durable.  Forcing the lever only causes its internal clutch to break away, and it can easily be set right by rotating it back the other way.

All in all the Securitech Lexi trim seems to be a well built, versatile problem solver.  I think you’ll find it useful in many access control installations.

The Keyway: Gateway to the Cylinder

The keyway is the shape of the keyhole of the lock cylinder into which the user inserts the key.  The keyway is designed to allow only keys of the correct shape to be inserted such that, when properly made, they will align the pin tumblers properly and operate the cylinder.  If you view a key from the tip, you can see how the shape of the key corresponds to the shape of the keyway.

 

 

 

 

 

The theory behind the keyway is to let only certain kinds of keys in and keep all others out, and keyways do this with varying amounts of success.  A variation on this idea is the “sectional” keyway system in which keys of slightly different keyways are allowed to “pass” into the cylinder keyway.  See the diagram of the Schlage hierarchy of keyways below:

The keyways shown at the bottom of the chart are designed to fit in only one keyway.  Unlike the keyways shown in the top two rows, actual locks have the keyways in the bottom row.  The keyways shown in the second row could be called sub-master sectional keyways because keys cut on blanks of these keyways will each pass several of the keyways in the bottom row.  Keys cut on the “L” keyway shown at the top of the chart will pass all of the keyways below it.  This keyway is designed to be used only at the level of Master or Grand Master key.

Unfortunately, some key duplicators use the “L” keyway key blanks to cut keys of any sectional keyway they may currently not have in stock.  This shoddy practice degrades the security of a master key section that depends on sectional keyways for security.

Restricted Key or Restricted Keyway?

Keys can be stamped with the words, “Do Not Duplicate” or “Property of [insert name of institution or government agency here],” and that may stop some honest people from getting the key copied.  The term, “restricted key,” however, usually means factory restricted keyway, and a factory restricted keyway can effectively inhibit unauthorized key duplication.

How Does a Factory Control a Keyway?

The most effective way to control unauthorized key duplication is to make the key blanks as difficult to get as possible.  Key blanks are like blank paper to a copier.  Imagine copy paper protected by a patent owned by a paper mill.  The only place to get the paper would be the paper mill.  Thus, one of the ways security hardware manufacturers protect a keyway is to protect it by patent law.  Part of that protection is aggressively pursuing anyone who violates the patent with lawsuits and other legal instruments to prevent patent infringement.

Another way factories protect keyways is to keep records of who is using what keyway and where.  Many companies have restricted key programs – Schlage Primus, Kaba Peaks and Medeco are a few examples.  Factories may keep signatures of end users on file.  In this case, requests for restricted products must be accompanied by a document that is signed with the correct signature or the factory will not release the product.

Some restricted keys come with an ID card that authorizes the card holder to get keys made.  This is less secure than key duplication that is controlled at the factory, but it is a step up from keys that anyone can get made at Home Depot.

Keyways and Key Bumping

In order to use a bump key to open a lock, the key bumper needs to have the right blank.  You cannot bump a cylinder with a bump key that has the wrong keyway.  It won’t go in.  Therefore, having a lock that has a somewhat rare keyway is a very easy and inexpensive way to make unauthorized entry by key bumping difficult.  Most of the people out there bumping locks open are not the brightest bulbs in the lighting fixture.  Challenge them with a hard-to-identify keyway and they will most likely be defeated.


Hardware Preparedness

Preparedness for the Commercial Door Hardware Installer

One of the most time consuming aspects of hardware installation is travel to and from the job.  In a perfect world, the installer knows in advance everything they will need, but as we all know, the World of Hardware is not a perfect one.   Often there is no opportunity to survey the job beforehand and the information given by the client is often either sketchy or nonexistent.   As a result, travel time to and from is often doubled or tripled by the necessity to ‘go back to the shop’ to pick up the parts needed to complete a given job.  A certain amount of travel time is billable, nevertheless your customer is not happy paying for it, trust me.

While it is virtually impossible for a hardware or access control installer to be always prepared for every need, here are some items that go a long way toward helping to reduce travel time that results from a lack of parts.

Generally Speaking

The first rule of hardware preparedness is to pay attention.  What kind of hardware does your customer have, and what do they have that tends to break?  If your customer has a building full of mortise locks will swivel spindles, best keep a few of those spindles on the truck because you know they are going to break in the middle.  If your customer has entrances with Doromatic 1690 or 1990 concealed vertical rod devices, you’d better stock a few pinion cams because you know the teeth are going to break off of them.  Whenever you repair anything that looks like it’s poorly made and notice there is a quantity of it on the property, best carry what you need to fix it.

If you are doing a lot of work for a client and they have a particular kind of lock, be sure to stock a few.  The property manager will be impressed when you triumphantly produce one from your service vehicle in the nick of time.

Fasteners

You know what fasteners you often find missing in action.  Undercut flat Philips head 12-24 1/2-inch self tapping hinge screws, for example.  In an emergency they can double as ANSI strike screws.  Collect those 6-32 3/4-inch combination machine/wood screws from tubular and cylindrical lock latch and bolt fronts.  They can double as screws for a mortise lock armor front if you cut them short.   For aluminum doors it can be very handy to carry some 10-32 x 2-inch flat head Philips machine screws, and its always good to have a few universal mounting tabs around just in case.

Other Stuff

On the electrical side it’s always good to have a SPDT relay, one each of a 12vdc and 24vdc 1-Amp plug-in power supply and a 4-1/2 x 4-1/2 4-wire electric power transfer hinge in satin chrome are all things that one tends to find oneself wishing for on the job; the Securitron TM-9 timer module sure does come in handy sometimes; on the lock frontier it’s always good to have a few cheap replacement cylinders for emergencies; and a full surface reinforcing pivot hinge can be a life saver sometimes, though because they are handed you do have to carry both hands for the full prophylactic effect.

In addition to these common sense items there are a couple of products that can save a parts run, too.

LCN 4040XP

The 4040XP in the RW/PA configuration (by the LCN Door Closer division of Ingersoll Rand) is a non-handed door closer like many others that can be installed in either regular, top jamb or parallel arm mount.  Its adjustable spring tension makes it a perfect choice for doors that require a lot of force to close due to wind or other conditions, or for an ADA compliant opening that must open with minimal resistance.  If the installer carries the closer and the 4040-18, 4040-18PA and 4040-18TJ drop plates, they will be able to install the 4040XP on almost any door.  The most popular finish of the 4040XP is 689 aluminum.

HES Electric Strikes with Faceplate Options

Hanchett Entry Systems (HES) has greatly advanced the concept of the modular electric strike since the company was founded.

  • The HES 1006 is field selectable for 12 or 24 volts DC power input, and with an optional Smart Pac line conditioner you can use anything from 12 to 32 volts AC or DC.   A variety of available faceplates for the 1006 enable the strike to accommodate virtually any lock.   Carrying a 1006 body with one each J option, K option, KD option and KM option faceplates and one Smart Pac will allow the installer to fill the need for an electric strike for 95% of all storeroom function cylindrical and mortise locks where the installation involves a hollow metal frame.
  • The HES 5200 is field selectable for 12 or 24 volts DC power input and any power input from 12 to 32 volts AC or DC with a Smart Pac.  Unlike the 1006, the 5200 is field selectable for fail safe or fail secure.  Since the 5200 has a three quarter inch keeper depth it will accommodate a mortise lock in a pinch, but really the 5200 is for use with cylindrical locks in hollow metal, wood or aluminum frame applications or for aluminum storefront door applications that include the Adams Rite deadlatch.  I recommend installers carry one each of the 501, 502 and 503 faceplate options to be prepared for the majority of these installations.

There are many things I’m sure I’ve missed:  electrical tape, fifty feet of 18/2 non-shielded wire, really sharp wood chisels, batteries – all kinds of stuff.  But don’t worry.  You’ll know what it is the next time you have to drive back to the shop to get it.

 

Cabinet Access Control

Rutherford Controls 3510 Electric Cabinet Lock

Cabinet security was already a concern in hospitals where drug theft is a problem, but has become an increased concern particularly in U.S. hospitals where new HIPAA privacy security regulations have mandated that patient data be secured by key or pass code locking device.  There are a wide variety of locking arrangements available to accomplish the task.

Simplex combination cabinet locks appear often in this application.  They are relatively inexpensive, not too hard to install, and accomplish basic compliance with HIPAA.  The regulations state that access to codes (or keys) should be limited, however, when you have a five-button mechanical combination lock, several hundred people can know the combination in a very short time by word of mouth.  Therefore a more costly and complex solution might be necessary in order to comply with the spirit of the regulations that are designed to actually protect patients’ privacy.

The best way to control people is to make them individually responsible.  That’s what electronic access control is all about.  Typically an institution adopts electronic access control for the audit trail capabilities that monitor who does what, where and when.  So if a patient’s information goes viral on the ‘Net, the debacle can more probably be traced back to its source.

As for credentials, biometrics is the most secure since one cannot share their fingerprint, but card or fob credentials are also effective.  People are less likely to share any credential that can be traced back to them.  Of course, unlike a fingerprint on a live finger, a card or prox fob could be stolen.   I do recommend a physical credential of some kind because PIN numbers are too easily shared.

The drawback to electronic security as applied to cabinets is that most available, good access control hardware tends to be hard wired.  Wiring can be difficult in such tight spaces, yet there are some solutions available.  For example, a resourceful access control installer could use an SDC model 1583 electromagnetic cabinet lock and an IEI Prox.pad keypad/proximity reader to secure a cabinet.  For a fail secure locking device, an RCI 3513 electric cabinet lock could be substituted for the SDC 1583.  The system would run on 24 volts DC and would need a power supply, but at least you could get audit trail and time zone capability out of it, with a Wiegand output for your existing access control system.

There are some glimmers of hope.  There are some stand-alone, battery operated cabinet locks that read a proximity card or i-Button.  But these are simply add-and-delete-user systems that allow control of who has access but does not keep track of when.  Without audit trail capability, access control is little better than that Simplex mechanical combination lock or a regular cabinet lock with its regular brass key.

For now the ultimate solution for cabinet security seems to be to put the cabinet in a locked room and use access control on the room rather than the cabinet.  But I think that will change, don’t you?

Multi-function Doorways, Part Two

Secured stairwell doors are among the most basic multi-function door applications.  In most jurisdictions they must (usually)* be both unlocked and positively latched in the event of a fire.  Unlocked so that if a person, fleeing into the stairwell during a fire, finds the stairwell full of smoke, they can safely exit the stairwell.  Positively latched so that the door will remain latched closed against the spread of the fire.

Until there is a need for access control, a passage function mortise lock, cylindrical lock with UL listed latch or exit device with passage function trim are fine.  The application begins to get interesting when the need arises to lock a stairwell door.

Right up front, electric strikes are out of the question because of the unlocked/positive latching requirement mentioned above.   It is not possible to positively latch a door when the electric strike is unlocked.  There is no such thing as a fire rated, fail safe electric strike.  If you configure a fire rated electric strike to be fail safe it voids the fire rating.

Since electric strikes are unusable for this application, that leaves either electric locks or electromagnetic locks.  Both have advantages and disadvantages.  Fail safe electric locks positively latch whereas mag locks allow the installer to us the existing hardware on the door to accomplish positive latching.  Electric locks require running wire through the door and some means of getting the wire from the frame into the door, such as an electric through-wire hinge.  Not all inspectors like electromagnetic locks, so before you install them be sure to check with your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ ) – that is, Fire Marshal or Building Inspector.

If the stairwell door already has a fire rated exit device installed, there is probably a fail safe electrified trim available for it.  Once again, this means an electric through-wire hinge or other power transfer device would be required.  Sometimes existing exit devices are incompatible with the electrified trims available for that brand and model of device.  If that is the case, the exit device might have to be replaced with one that is compatible with electrified trim.

Alternatively, there are after market request to exit (a.k.a. RX) switches available for most exit devices.  One could be used to release an electromagnetic lock on the stairwell door.

Usually it is required that all electric locking devices on stairwell doors be controlled by the fire alarm panel.  When the fire alarm is in a state of alarm, it unlocks all the stairwell doors.  Two conductor wire is run from the fire alarm panel contacts to a special fire alarm relay in the power supply that powers the electric locks on the stairwell doors.  The alarm panel opens the circuit, causing the state of the fire alarm relay to change, thus powering down the fail safe locks and thereby leaving them unlocked.

An important detail:  technically speaking, according to most building and life safety codes, fire rated doors can only be modified in a fire rated shop.  Therefore if you field cut a raceway for an electric wire through the cross members of the door, for example, you are probably voiding the fire rating.  I have never heard of anyone being called on this, but it is good to keep in mind.  Just like it is good to keep in mind that the AHJ has total authority over what you can or can’t install.  Best make sure you’re on the same page with her or him, otherwise they do have the power to make you remove what you installed and replace both door and frame to repair the damage.

Happy hardware and good luck to you.


*Some jurisdictions specify that not all stairwell doors need be unlocked in the event of a fire, only certain doors.  For example, I have known some places where code was the door had to be unlocked at every fourth floor.  Check with your local AHD to find out what the rules are for your location.


Hot Stuff: Continuous Duty Electric Locking Devices

The Ohm Symbol

I regularly hear complaints about electric strikes, cylindrical locks or mortise locks that are hot to the touch.   When I ask, I am always answered that, yes, the device is being used in a continuous duty application.

Continuous duty means that the electric lock or strike is powered continuously, usually for several hours a day.  Most fail safe locks and strikes are run continuously, since they are usually locked part of the day and they require electric power to lock.  Whenever a door is kept unlocked by using an electrical timer, the lock or strike that is controlled by the time is run continuously for part of the timing cycle.

Heat in an electric lock or strike is caused by resistance in the electrical circuit as it passes through the coil of the solenoid inside the device.  Often this heat is sufficient to “burn out” the solenoid.   The solenoid does not actually catch fire, usually.  The term, “burned out” refers to a solenoid that has been ruined by excessive heat so that it no longer functions.

Heat from electrical resistance is exacerbated when there are problems with the supply of power.  For example, if the power supply provides less than sufficient amperage to constantly power the solenoid, the solenoid will ‘run’ hotter.  Similarly if there is a current drop because of a long wire run with inadequate wire gauge, the solenoid will not get sufficient current and will run hot.  Also if the voltage supplied is significantly higher than the solenoid is rated to accept, that could create a heat problem as well.

Often, however, there is no detectable reason for the solenoid to run hot.  Sometimes, it seems, they just do.

A great way to mitigate the problem of the hot lock or strike (when all power supply problems have been solved) is to use an electrical device in line with the electric lock or strike that provides it with a full inrush voltage and current upon activation and then reduces the voltage and/or current to a holding level, allowing the solenoid to run cooler.

Several companies offer these units.  Here are some examples:

  • HES:  Model 2005M3 Smart Pack controller
  • COMMAND ACCESS:  CRU-2 current reduction unit
  • TRINE:  LC-100 line conditioner

 

 

Full Height Housings for Electromagnetic Locks

Maglocks are generally great problems solvers, but they also create problems.  One significant problem is the fact that they are usually installed on the header, and therefore only lock the top of the door.  If the only lock on the door is a magnetic lock and the door is fairly flexible, a reasonably strong person may be able to pull the bottom of the door open four or more inches.

One solution to this problem is to install mags top and bottom on the lock side leg of the frame rather than on the header.  If you have an opening that measures at least 35 inches from stop to stop and you use magnets that are three inches wide or less, you can install mags in the opening and still have 32 inches clear to comply with the American Disabilities Act.  The problem with this idea is that no matter where they are installed in the opening, users are likely to bump into them with some body part or other.

Enter the full height housing for electromagnetic locks, an enclosure that houses one or two maglocks and mounts on the stop of the lock side leg of the door jamb as illustrated below.

The illustration above is one I prepared for a customer so that I could order a custom built, full height housing for two electromagnetic locks.  The drawing shows the dimensions I requested as indicated by the lines with arrows at both ends:  height of the opening from threshold to header stop; distance from header stop to center line of upper maglock prep; distance from threshold to center line of lower mag prep; and distance between the center lines of the mag preps.

Provided the opening is at least 35 inches clear and the housing is no more than three inches wide, the opening will still comply with ADA after the full height housing system is installed.

 


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