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Electric Strike Monitors: LBM and LBSM

Exploded view of Von Duprin 6211 with Dual Switch option.
From Von Duprin 6211 installation instructions.

LBM stands for Latch Bolt Monitor. LBSM stands for Latch Bolt and Strike Monitor, also known as LBCM and DS, depending on the manufacturer. There are probably other variations as well.

In the illustration above is shown the Von Duprin 6211. The labeled parts, “Tripper” and “Extension,” are used when the strike is equipped with the DS (dual switch) option. The DS option is Von Duprins version of LBSM. The Tripper is a piece of metal that changes the state of a switch when it is depressed by the spring-loaded force of a latch bolt when it drops into the keeper. Most other strikes use similar mechanisms to detect the presence of the latch bolt.

LBM will tell you if there is not a latch bolt present in the keeper. LBSM will tell you if there is no latch bolt present in the keeper and/or the strike itself is not in the fully locked position. Neither of these would tell you if the door is ajar. So LBM and LBSM are not true substitutes for a door position switch.

And, if someone stuffs the keeper with something to effectively keep the door unlocked or fool it into thinking there was a latch bolt there, it won’t tell you anything. On the other hand, if you don’t have LBM, someone can tape the latch back with duct tape you would have no way of knowing. The door position switch will tell you the door is closed, but you need the LBM to tell you it’s latched. The LBSM can provide you with the additional information that the electric strike is not properly locked; perhaps the keeper is not closed all the way or the internal parts are not all the way in the locked position.



A Few Strange Hinges

Interim Hinge by McKinney

Interim Hinge

Above is pictured an interim hinge, used when your door and your frame have different sized hinge preps. For example, your frame is prepped for a five-inch by four-and-a-half inch hinge and your door is prepped for a four-and-a-half by four-and-a-half inch hinge. Why would you need such a thing? Inability to read a tape measure, perhaps?

Wide Throw Hinge

Wide Throw Hinge by McKinney

The hinge above is a wide throw hinge, used when you have a thick molding applied to the pull side face of the door frame. My illustration below shows the difference.

Sometimes people order wide throw hinges by accident because they do not know how to properly measure a full mortise hinge. Full mortise hinges are measured height first, then width. Wide throw hinges have a width that is greater than the height whereas standard hinges do not So if, for example, you order a 5 x 4-1/2 inch hinge you are getting a standard hinge and if you order a 4-1/2 x 5 inch hinge you are getting a wide throw hinge.

Half Mortise and Half Surface Hinges

Half Mortise and Half Surface HInges by McKinney

In the picture above, the half mortise hinge is on the left and the half surface hinge is on the right. As you can see by the “application’ drawings below each hinge, the half mortise hinge has the mortise prep on the door, and the half surface has the mortise prep on the frame. You can tell the half mortise at a glance because the surface leaf is narrow, for installation on the surface of the frame.



The Diverse World of Overhead Stops and Holders

Clockwise beginning at top left: surface mounted GJ 70 and 79 series and Rixson 7 series; Rixson 6 series concealed; bottom right, GJ 81 series surface mount; bottom center, ABH 3400 series with side jamb bracket; bottom left, GJ 90 series surface mount; and above that, ABH 1000A series.

For some applications there is no truly adequate substitute for an overhead stop. Yet many times they are omitted from from hardware schedules where they should be used. But unless concealed OH stops are included at the design stage, retrofitting surface stops to a job after the fact can present a significant challenge.

All overhead stops and holders are designed to accomplish basically the same goals, but in differing situations. If it is a stop, its purpose is to stop the door before it hits something, usually a wall. If it is a stop and holder, its purpose is to stop the door and, under the right circumstances, hold the door open. Overhead stops protect the door closer arm, and they can also make it more possible for the door closer to shut the door in high winds when the stop is templated to allow the door to open to 90 degrees or less. Maximum degree of opening with an overhead stop tends to be in 110 degree range.

Installation of surface-mounted models is simple except when a door closer is involved. Then an amount of thinking and/or additional parts may be required. This is one of the main reasons overhead stops are not often used. However, in at least one circumstance there is no comparable substitute; that is, exterior, high-use, out-swinging doors that are frequently exposed to high winds.

Most overhead stops are sized according to door width and type of hinge used, for example, you would use a 792S (size 2) for a butt hung door with an opening width of 23-1/16 inches through 27 inches, and a 793S for a door with butt hinges that is 27-1/16 inches wide through 33 inches wide. This is information found in the installation instructions. There are also adjustable overhead stops available from most manufacturers; one example is the ABH 1000A series.

The sections below discuss a few of overhead stops shown in the illustration at the top of this article.

Glynn Johnson 70 and 79 Series

Glynn Johnson 70 and 79 Series Surface Mount Overhead Stops
The 70 series is heavy duty and the 79 is extra-heavy duty. These are overhead stops for doors that are regularly exposed to high winds and/or abuse.

At left is a drawing of the 79 Series installed. You can see the problem of where to put the door closer.


One solution might be the LCN 1460 with 62A shoe that significantly lowers the door closer on the door as shown below:

LCN 1460 with 62A shoe and 70 series LCN overhead stop

The drawing above comes from a GJ / LCN applications guide I stumbled upon many years ago. If you look at overhead stop installation instructions, you’ll see they don’t mention a door closer. I have searched for other guides that show door closers with overhead stops, but I have found none.

If you have an aluminum-and-glass narrow stile storefront door with a 3-1/2-inch top rail, you can see that dropping the door closer this much might be a problem. At best, there would need to be a drop plate added that would show through the glass. Not pretty. Another common solution with all surface mount overhead stops is to install the stop on the push side of the door and the closer on the pull side – a viable choice on interior doors, but not usually on exterior doors.

Glynn Johnson 90 Series

Glynn Johnson 90 Series Surface Mounted Overhead Stops
This is the most common type of surface mounted overhead stop, and all overhead stop manufacturer’s make something like it.

In the drawing above you can see the space it takes up on the door. Here’s how it translates into an application with a door closer:

GJ 90 Series with LCN 1460 closer mounted top jamb
Side View, GJ 90 with LCN 1460 series

As you can see, this is not too bad as hardware conflicts go. The measurements are tight, but do-able.

Rixson 7 Series

Rixson Series 7 Surface Mount Overhead Stops
Rixson doesn’t talk much about this overhead stop in their catalog. They say it is ‘industrial duty,’ so, I guess, it must be well suited for high use and abuse environments like factories and warehouses. Much like the heavy spring on the GJ 70 series above, the cantilever design works as a shock-absorber. I included it because if its unique design, which is to say it looks kind of cool.

Rixson 7 Series

Rixson 6 Series Concealed Overhead Stops
All overhead stop manufacturers make concealed overhead stops.

Concealed overhead stops have the distinct advantage that they interfere much less with the door closer installation, however they often make a difficult retrofit, especially on wood doors, sometimes requiring that the door be taken down so the mortise for the track can be cut in.

On a fire rated door this would most likely void the rating.

Rixson 6 Series

Like most Rixson overhead stops, the 6 Series is also available as the 6ADJ Series adjustable version.

Shock absorption is achieved by a heavy spring inside the track. The spring engages at the last seven inches of swing, affording a significant layer of protection for the door closer.

From the Rixson 6 Series install instructions.

The picture taken from the Rixson 6 Series installation instructions shows how much real estate is left on the door for a door closer, and illustrates how much better it is to be working with a concealed overhead stop rather than a surface mounted one.



Occupancy Indicators

In 2018 we have seen a sharp increase in choices available for occupancy indicators for mortise locks. Goodness knows the world can always use more occupancy indicators. One might say that us hardware geniuses now have a dizzying array of indicators available to meet your occupancy indication application needs. Following are some examples of the new choices.

The Schlage lock company advanced with new “180 degree visibility” indicator offerings for their L Series mortise locks, including the new N escutcheon with indicator. Four signage options are available, and indicators are available for use on both the insides and outsides of doors. For example, on a classroom intruder application, LOCKED/UNLOCKED indicators can be installed on both sides of the door, or on a nursing mother’s room, a LOCKED/UNLOCKED indicator inside to reassure the mom, and a DO NOT DISTURB or OCCUPIED indicator outside to stop folks from barging in.

“180 degree visibility” is accomplished by additional indicator windows on the edge of the indicator unit that are visible from the side.
There are many models in this offering of indicators: one for each combination of interior or exterior multiplied by four possible signage choices and for use with either cylinder, emergency screwdriver slot or turn piece.

These indicators are usable with many, but not all L Series functions.   Schlage still offers their original model 09-611 indicator that is included with some mortise lock functions.  Consult your Schlage commercial price book or favorite door hardware genius for more information.

Sargent and Corbin have also increased their indicator offerings for their mortise locks, expanding them to more functions with more signage options, and now including escutcheon trims as well. 

One option offered by Assa Abloy and not by Allegion at this time is escutcheons engraved with the word, “LOCK,” and an arrow indicating the direction one needs to turn the key to lock the door.  This option would perhaps be most notably used for classroom intruder functions, wherein the outside trim is locked from inside the classroom with a key during a security emergency.  The inside trim remains unlocked for safe egress. 

Like the new Allegion indicators, the new Assa Abloy indicator offerings work with select functions and have variable part numbers that reflect the different signage, placement and function of the indicator. 

Usually occupancy indicators can be added to existing locks, as long as the indicator is compatible with the function of the lock.  Replacing a plain escutcheon with an indicator escutcheon is a bit pricier and installation is more complex, but it can be done, once again, if the chosen indicator trim is compatible with the existing hardware.

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Ligature Resistant Door Hardware

Left: Marks USA Lifesaver series. Right: TownSteel MRXA series.

Ligature resistant, otherwise known as anti-ligature or behavioral health door hardware is designed to make it difficult for folks to use it for suicide by hanging or otherwise harming themselves or others.  Pictured adjacent are cylindrical knob and lever locks by Marks USA and a mortise lock by TownSteel.

All are designed to resist attempts to hang oneself.  The cylindrical lever and knob locks feature more or less conical designs that cause a cord to slide off of them regardless of how one might try to tie it on.  The lever turns freely even when locked, achieving the same result.  The mortise lock uses a conical cylinder collar and sloped trim to achieve ligature resistance.  The opening in the pull is closed by a steel plate, making it impossible to pass a cord through it.  The exposed fasteners are security fasteners that require a special tool to loosen, and they fit flat and flush to the escutcheon and lock front.

When you sell or install ligature resistant hardware it is best not to modify the product in any way, because in doing so you will assume all responsibility for anything that happens as a result involving the hardware.  This can include disassembling a cylindrical lock to rekey it.  For this reason I recommend that when keyed anti-ligature locks are specified they are specified as interchangeable or removable core locks.

Ligature resistant hinges have hinge tips called “hospital tips” that are sloped to discourage suicide attempts (see McKinney hinge adjacent).  Security screws also help keep folks safe by making it difficult to use the hinge to hurt oneself or others.   Select Hinge offers a little gem called the “Tipit” for continuous hinges that makes continuous hinges ligature resistant.

Increasingly I field inquiries for ligature resistant door closers for butt or offset hung doors, but to my knowledge there is no such animal as of this writing.  Various factory tech support people have recommended overhead concealed security closers for ligature resistant applications, and this seems to be the consensus at this time.

I believe that using doors that are center hung with single acting, concealed overhead or floor closers would be safer and would eliminate the need for anti-ligature hinges; but this is impractical for retrofit applications where butt or offset hung doors are already present in abundance.

In the illustration below I show why I feel a center hung, concealed, single acting door closer would be the best choice for ligature resistance.





In door hardware, safety is the most important consideration.

 

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The Time-Out Room

DormaKaba Stanley Best SSRL seclusion room lock.

The “Time-out Room,” also called a “Seclusion Room,” is, perhaps, a sign of our times. The purpose of a time-out room in a middle school or elementary school is to temporarily segregate an out-of-control student from the rest of the school population.  As you can imagine, the use of a seclusion room is heavily regulated, and regulations vary from state to state, city to city, and even institution to institution.  However, there are some common rules.  For example, such rooms are required to be equipped with a means to see and communicate with the student while they inside the room; the room must be free of objects and conditions that might be potentially dangerous; and the door must be unlocked from the inside.  The room must also be large enough for the student to lie down in without touching a wall, and must have a high enough ceiling that the student will not have to bend.

The purpose of the room is to let the student cool off and calm down before rejoining the school population.  It is not a holding cell.  Its purpose is less as a punishment than a behavioral tool.

What stops the student from leaving the seclusion room?  A person keeps them in.  A person must be present to observe and make sure the student is safe.  I venture to say that same person is the one who gets the student into the room in first place and keeps them there.  With no great stretch of the imagination, one might foresee instances in which the student to be secluded might be significantly bigger and stronger than the person responsible for keeping him and others safe.  It might be physically impossible for the responsible person to keep the student in the room.  They might need help.

The answer could be to put someone large, strong and well-versed in non-lethal martial arts with the patience of a saint in charge of the seclusion room duties, or it could be to use some kind of locking device to keep them in.  But, wait!  You can’t lock them in.  It’s against the rules.  How do you solve the problem?

Often the answer is an electromagnetic lock controlled by a normally open, momentary contact switch.  The magnet is only activated when the button is pressed.  As soon as the responsible person takes their hand off the button the mag lock is unlocked.  Often, local or institutional rules governing seclusion rooms require a time limit on seclusion.  One could add a timer to the system that would automatically release the electromagnetic lock after the permissible amount of time has expired.  Life safety code would demand that the magnetic lock be disabled by the fire alarm.

Pictured above is the Stanley Best SSRL seclusion room lock as seen under the Behavioral Health Products section at the bestaccess.com web site.  One must stand there and hold the lever in position to temporarily secure the door.  In photo we can see that the door is a hollow metal door in a hollow metal frame, and the door has a lite kit in it with wire glass.  I’ll bet it’s a heavy gauge, reinforced steel door, too, judging from the three-point locking version of the SSRL shown.  Clearly they expect trouble.  Through the window they can observe the student and make sure that they are safe.

Since we can see the knuckles of the hinges we know the door swings out.  This eliminates the need for a ligature-resistant handle on the inside of the door.   We’ll talk more about ligature-resistant hardware soon.





Sometimes you just need a little time.

 

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Exit Device Retrofitting Adventures

Monarch model 18

As door hardware evolves, new products emerge to replace older products. This may happen because of a design improvement, or because a company changes ownership, but in either case it means that there are older products in the field for which there are no exact replacements. Any door hardware product may become obsolete over time. Today we are talking about exit devices.

Falcon Model 25

In the mid-Twentieth Century mass production of doors was standardized so that the mortise pocket within a door that houses the mortise lock would always be the same size. Before this standardization mortise locks were available in a wide variety of sizes, but from this time forward all architectural grade lock fronts would be eight inches tall by one-and-a-quarter inches wide. Of course this affected mortise exit devices. So when I went to replace a Von Duprin 8875 mortise exit device manufactured sometime between 1897 and 1920, I found that the mortise pocket was only about six inches tall and I had a bit of cutting to do to make the new device fit.

Companies pay varying attention to the ‘retrofit-ability’ of their products. Some companies make it easy to replace an old device with a new one, and some do not. As an installer it is easy to find oneself marooned out in the field, having identified an exit device by its appearance for the purpose of providing an estimate to replace it, only to find out during installation that it is the old version, and installing the new version is either going to be a lot of extra work, or extra hardware that was not on the estimate.

For example, in the late 1990’s Von Duprin redesigned their narrow stile 33 and 35 series exit devices. The rails remained the same, but the heads were completely changed. The old version did not accept a rim cylinder tail piece, and the new one does. This means the old outside trim will by no means work with the new device – a potentially expensive problem if not anticipated.

Similarly the Precision 2000 series Apex devices are not backwards compatible with the old 1000 series trims.

Monarch was bought by Ingersoll Rand and rebranded under the Falcon line of products, now part of Allegion. During these transitions the trims changed part numbers two or maybe three times. Check with your favorite hardware genius as to whether the trim you have will work with the device you need.

The lesson here is not to judge by appearances. The new Von Duprin 33 looks a lot like the old one and the Precision 2000 looks just like the 1000 series. To avoid expensive mistakes, pull the device off the door and positively identify it before you write your estimate.

Both Doromatic and Jackson responded to the need to replace crossbar devices with touch bar devices by creating touch bar versions that fit the same footprint as their crossbar predecessors. The Doromatic 1690 and 1790 devices replace the 1990 and 2090, and the Jackson 2085 and 2095 replace the 1085 and 1095 devices with very little trouble. A big bonus is that a in the case of the 2085 Jackson and the 1690 Doromatic concealed vertical rod devices, you can reuse the exiting concealed vertical rods.





Knowing what you have is the key to knowing what you want.

 

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Electric Hinge vs. EPT (and oh yeah, Molex)

McKinney Electric Thru Wire Hinge with Molex connectors

I was taking a class on Molex connectors a while ago and the teacher – a manufacturer’s representative from a major hardware manufacturer – expressed the opinion that for high traffic applications, a power transfer is preferable to an electric thru wire hinge.  I confess that until that moment I had not actually thought about it much, but what he said made a lot of sense.  After all, almost everyone prefers an electric hinge to an EPT because of the relative ease of installation.

But the rep made a good point.  The wires that run through an electric through an electric hinge are pretty thin – usually 24 or 26 gauge wire – and every time the door is used these wires are bent back and forth.  If you’ve ever bent a copper wire back and forth in your hands until it breaks you will know what I’m getting at here.  When you bend a copper wire back and forth, over and over, first it heats up, then it breaks.  The same process is going on in the knuckle of that hinge.  There’s a whole lot o’ twistin’ goin’ on.

Von Duprin EPT10

When you open a door equipped with an EPT, however, there is less twisting happening.  The wires must still bend with the motion, but only a fraction of the bending that occurs with an electric hinge.  That’s why the rep always recommends EPT’s over electric hinges if the opening is to have any serious traffic through it.  Sure, installing an EPT is a lot more work, but a callback to replace a failed electric hinge is at least as much work, especially considering travel time.

Yes, you’re right, I did mention Molex connector class.  A few times now I’ve run into applications where the installer wants to convert a regular removable mullion into an electric mullion so they can install an electric strike on the mullion.  Since the advent of the surface mounted electric strike for rim exit devices, it was inevitable that someone would want to do this.  The problem?  What do you do with the wire at the header?  Well, if you just run a continuous wire, the mullion is no longer removable, is it?

But, aha!  I said.  We’ll use a Molex connector at the header.  What is a Molex connector, you ask?  Those would be those plastic connectors attached to the ends of the wires on the McKinney hinge above.  Molex is a company that has created a system of plug-and-play wire connectors, and these connectors are becoming more and more common in the door hardware industry.  Major door hardware manufacturers are now incorporating Molex connectors into all their electrified products and offering what are in effect extension cords with Molex connectors.

So a couple of connector-equipped extension cords would solve the problem of the suddenly non-removable mullion, right?  Well, not so fast, buckaroo.

This is what I learned in Molex class.  In Molex connectors, which connector will connect to what other connector is determined by the pin crimped onto the end of the wire.  They give them genders, “male” and “female”, because the male can be inserted into the female.  Okay, great.  Where is the problem?  The problem is that as of this writing, door hardware manufacturers’ extension cords all have connectors of the same gender on each end, so you cannot plug them into each other.  They will only plug into an electric hinge or EPT that has Molex connectors.

The solution to the DIY electrified mullion problem:  make your own DIY Molex connector for the wire in the header.  To do this you will need a standard wire stripper, some 12-conductor cable, the special Molex crimping tool, Molex connector housings, and Molex male and female pins.  There is a service kit available that contains all these parts.  It is a fairly time consuming process to make your own Molex connector, and it requires skill, but it is the only solution that I know to the mullion problem.

Get your surface mount electric strike with Molex connectors (several electric strike manufacturers offer these) and an extension cable from Assa Abloy or Allegion to get the wire from the strike to the top of the mullion.  Now you have the capability to connect your makeshift electrified mullion into the connector you must make.  You can attach your homemade Molex to as long a cable as you like – long enough to reach the power supply or access control panel.

Does this solution comply with code? I do not know. Best check with your local AHJ before embarking on your Molex DIY mullion adventure.

Why is the industry moving to Molex connectors?  They do not fall off, look ugly, or take up a lot of space like wire nuts, and if you need to trade out an electric hinge or electric strike they sure do make it a whole lot cleaner and easier.

 





That’s right. As usual, it all comes down to sex.

 

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The Wacky World of Wireless Access Control Locks

Wireless access control locks are at the leading edge of door hardware evolution, creating hybrid devices that are both credential reader and locking hardware all in one. Some of these locks are designed to integrate with existing access control systems without the need to run cable back to the panel from the door; others interface with their own software on the end user’s computer or computer network using a wifi gateway.

Left: Dorma Kaba Eplex ………… Right: Alarm Lock Networx

The Independent Systems

Alarm Lock and Dorma Kaba are two manufacturers that offer wireless access control locks with proprietary software designed only to control and monitor these locks.  This represents a step up from standalone programmable locks that needed to be visited with a notebook computer or handheld programmer for programming and audit trail download purposes. The locks connect via a wireless router or gateway to a single PC or to a server on the end user’s computer network.

The Alarm Lock Networx product can also be integrated into a few access control systems; see the Alarm Lock Networx web site for details.  The Dorma Kaba wireless Eplex lock is compatible with Dorma Kaba E-Enterprise software.

These independent solutions are good for folks who want to upgrade from mechanical locking systems to electronic access control, offering full featured access control capabilities, near-instantaneous reporting and monitoring and requiring very little wiring to install.

If, however, the end user has an existing access control system that they would like to expand, using the Alarm Lock Networx software or Dorma Kaba E-Enterprise software would mean adding a second access control system – a complication many end users would like to avoid.

In the past, when a facility wanted to expand their access control system their access control company would be called in to run wire and install credential readers and the door hardware installer might be called in to install electric locks or strikes to be controlled by these new readers. Today, however, the door hardware installer can install wireless access control locks that can be integrated into the end users existing system.

But wait! Not so fast, there, champ.

Left: Schlage AD-400 ………. Right: Sargent IN120

The Integrators

Allegion and Assa Abloy are two major lock manufacturers that offer wireless access control locks that integrate with existing access control systems. This means that the end user can program these locks using the same access control software they are currently using.

Using the Allegion AD series wireless as an example, a single interface panel can allow up to sixty-four of these locks to the panel. There is actually some wiring involved with wireless locks: the interface panel (or wifi gateway) must still be wired to the main access control panel. This is the great attraction: that one can greatly expand an access control system without spending a lot of time and money on wiring. A wire is run from the access control panel to the interface panel in a distant wing of the building, and then the interface panel (or a few of them) communicate with all the locks in that wing.

Conflict arises from the very fact that these locks are designed to integrate with existing systems. Over the last several decades, access control systems have become big business. Traditionally, for every door in the system, the access control company sells a reader. In addition, an expansion module may be needed at the access control panel. If we install sixty-four wireless locks and integrate them into the existing access control system, it can be said that we just deprived the access control company of the sale of sixty-four readers.

Access control does a lot more than control access these days. Access control, environmental control systems, fire and security alarms, elevator control, employee time and attendance, student meal plan administration and other systems may all be incorporated into the same system, run by enterprise level software on a server on the end user’s computer network. You might say the access control company that owns the rights to the software and manufactures the access control panel is in a very secure position. Extricating one access control company to replace it with another could be a monumental task, involving every person whose life the system touches.

What can access control manufacturers do about these wireless locks being attached to their systems? Plenty. They can update their software so that these locks are incompatible. They can charge the end user a licensing fee for every lock that is added. In short, they can make the addition of wireless access control locks to their system expensive or impossible.

Both Allegion and Assa Abloy have made agreements with access control manufacturers that allow their products to be added to existing access control systems. Allegion has a range of agreements with various manufacturers limiting to whom Allegion wireless access control products can be sold. In many cases Allegion wireless products can only be sold to the access control company with whose system they will be integrated. Assa Abloy wireless access control locks can only be sold to their designated Certified Integrators. It is through these channels that wireless access control locks make it onto job sites.

Because of these sales limitations, bidding on jobs that specify these kinds of locks can be complicated. Bidders often find they must exclude specified wireless access control locks from their bid because they are unable to buy them. In the case of Assa Abloy products, some bidders may elect to take the online course and become a Certified Integrator. In the case of Allegion, they might be fortunate enough to be bidding on a job in which the access control manufacturer has no agreement with Allegion, and the job can therefore be freely bid. In either case, however, it is a more complicated process than simply pricing out a piece of door hardware.

 





Evolution or intelligent design? Wait, did you say, ‘intelligent?’

 

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Aluminum Door Latch Electric Strike Retrofit

Adams Rite 4501 Strike – from the Adams Rite web site.

Often we find ourselves involved in someone’s second thoughts about the use of a particular aluminum storefront type opening, wherein someone remembers that, hey, this opening needs access control.  Or, perhaps, the idea of access control comes to the opening later in its life.  In any case, the door company provided their usual solution for the customer’s parameters:  an Adams Rite latch with a lever handle or push paddle and the standard strike shown at right.  Extra credit:  What hand is the strike in the picture?*

From Adams Rite 4901 and 4902 install instructions

Above is a drawing of the prep for the 4901 double-hole strike.  The prep is 4-5/8 x the width of the door frame less 5/32 inch (.15 inches) as shown – or about 1-7/8 inches wide or so, depending on the actual depth of the frame measured from the stop to the edge.

The most common (non-electric) strike that comes with the Adams Rite latch is the 4901 as of this writing.  It was called the 4501 years ago, but it remains mostly the same:  4-5/8 inches tall, with two holes to accommodate left- or right-handed doors.  It comes with a plastic insert to block off the unused hole as shown in the picture of the 4501 strike above.

Common electric strike face plate heights are 4-7/8 inches, 6-7/8 inches , 7-15/16 inches, and 9 inches, and common widths range from 7/8 to 1-7/16 inches.  The problem lies in the differences.  None of these common sizes will fully cover the width of the 4901 prep, and after you’ve installed the strike there are ugly gaps left to fill in the aluminum.   You can use one of the following retrofit solutions to avoid this problem.

Retrofit Solutions

Trine 3458 electric strike, from the Trine web site.

Two companies have led the way in solutions to this very specific and often-occurring problem:  Trine and Adams Rite.  Trine has the quick fix and Adams Rite has the relatively heavy-duty fix.

Several years ago Trine redefined itself into a company of innovative solutions from a company that was much more focused on price point.  They went from being the cheapest guy on the street (though in many cases they still have the best price) to being a great problem-solver.  Case in point, the Trine 3458 electric strike (see pic at left), designed as a drop-in replacement for the Adams Rite 4901 with NO CUTTING.   This is a big deal for installers.

Despite its tiny body, the strike boasts an ANSI Grade 1 rating and 1200 lbs. of holding force.

The downsides:  not voltage selectable without a line conditioner, not field selectable for fail safe/fail secure, and keeper depth is 1/2 inch – fine for use with the Adams Rite 4510 latch which has a 1/2-inch throw, but could be an issue with the Adams Rite 4900 (5/8-inch throw) if the gap between the door and frame is less than the 1/8 inch it should be.

Adams Rite remains the premier manufacturer of locking hardware for aluminum storefront doors and frames as it has been for decades.  They have consistently worked to improve product quality and performance and they have succeeded.

FPK45 Retrofit Kit by Adams Rite

The Adams Rite solution to the 4901 retrofit problem is actually two-fold because it applies to two very different models of strikes:  the 7100 and the 7400.  For the 7100 series, Adams Rite offers the FPK45-00 face plate kit, and for the 7400 series they offer the FPK7445 face plate kit.  Installation of either one is largely the same:  enlarging the prep on the top and the bottom, and keeping the bottom screw mounting tab.

At right you can see the overall dimensions of the FPK7445 or FPK45 and how it aligns with the 4901 (or 4501) strike.  The mission is to line up the keeper of the electric strike to the active hole of the 4901.  You can see that enlarging the prep represents a significant amount of work.  You might well ask, “Why would I do this?”

First, as I mentioned, if you have a 4900 latch in the door and/or no gap between door and frame, you are going to want a deeper keeper than the Trine.  Like the Trine, the Adams Rite are also ANSI Grade 1 burglary resistant but offer a slightly higher holding force of 1500 lbs.  If you do not know the voltage in advance, the 7400 series is completely field selectable for a number of popular voltages – although one can get the Trine LC-100 line conditioner with the Trine strike and accomplish much the same thing.  Both the 7400 and 7100 are field selectable for fail safe or fail secure operation whereas the Trine are not.

In the industry there remains a lot of loyalty to the 7100 series.  In its time, the 7100 was a revolution in design and remains one of the most reliable and repairable electric strikes on the market today.





*The 4501 strike in the picture is left hand, or right hand reverse.

 

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